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Moisture-loving joe-pye weed is a North American native wildflower that’s perfect for pollinator gardens. Learn how to grow your own now on Gardener’s Path. Tom’s Blog Yesterday I spent an hour or so collecting woodland Joe Pye weed ( Eupatorium purpureum ). This species is relatively similar to the wetland Joe Pye weed ( E. maculatum ), but less Joe Pye weed (Eupatoriadelphus fistulosus) is a wildflower native to the eastern half of the United States in USDA horticultural zones 3 to 9. It grows to 6 feet tall and has a hollow stem with large oblong leaves up to 10 inches long. The plants can form dense colonies if grown in the right conditions–damp or wet …

How to Grow Joe-Pye Weed in Your Landscape or Garden

Skipping over all the heated arguments about flowers, snobbery, and who has the audacity to call certain plants “weeds,” I’ll tell you that joe-pye weed is wonderful.

It grows tall, seven feet or more, and blooms in late summer and fall when so many other flowers have already faded.

Its composite flowers, in attractive shades of purple, pink, and pearl white, have a scent reminiscent of vanilla.

They produce an abundance of nectar and pollen that attracts and provides for butterflies, particularly swallowtails, and various other types of pollinators.

The seeds, especially since they form so late in the fall, appeal to songbirds in search of food.

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Joe-pye has a couple of especially desirable traits you don’t come across that often.

For one thing, it will thrive in moist areas, which is why you may have spotted it growing in ditches alongside the highway, and why you might want to plant it in problematic swampy areas of your yard.

And its USDA native status extends throughout the lower 48 states, so it’s appropriate for meadows, butterfly gardens, and other native landscaping plots across the country.

Whether you’re looking for a tall plant that’s easy to care for, or you’re trying to attract wildlife and love a vanilla aroma, joe-pye weed may be just the thing.

There are even more benefits to discover in this guide, along with plenty of growing advice. Here’s what to expect:

What You’ll Learn

What Is Joe-Pye Weed?

Part of the aster family, Asteraceae, and native to North America, the five species commonly called joe-pye weed are late summer and fall-blooming wildflowers that thrive in sunny, moist sites.

They readily self-seed, and some species also spread underground via rhizomes.

Most grow tall, to a mature height of seven feet or more, but some of the cultivars developed more recently are shorter and more appropriate for smaller garden beds, reaching three to five feet tall.

They typically bloom in purple or dusky white, though some varieties have off-white blossoms.

Each flower is a composite, flat-topped cluster of nine to 22 tubular florets with a pithy center.

Along with being irresistible to bees, the abundant nectar attracts hummingbirds, and songbirds flock to the blooms to eat the insects they draw.

When the flowers fade in late fall, they produce seeds for the birds to eat, and little fluffy puffs (known as pappi) that may be used as nesting material.

All these traits make joe-pye a darling of naturalists and gardeners in search of hardy native plants for the fall landscape.

How did this species get such an unusual name? Read on for more info about that, and learn all the dos and don’ts for growing this wonderful wildflower.

Cultivation and History

I love a good story as much as the next person, but it’s most likely just folklore that the original Joe Pye was a native healer who would cure typhus with Eupatorium purpureum.

That plant was once classified in the same genus as joe-pye weed, and is now known commonly as boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum).

The tale of the New England herbal healer has been making the rounds of wildflower guidebooks for at least 120 years.

Another amusing but unlikely addition to the background of this species says the former genus Eupatorium has a name derived from a king known as Eupator Dionysius.

He was born around 120 BC, and may have used a poison antidote derived from plants of that type to condition himself to withstand the effects of poison later used to kill his enemies.

Some recent and aboveboard research from botanists James S. Pringle and Richard B. Pearce did establish the existence of an authentic Joe Pye.

That was the nickname used by Joseph Shauquethqueat, a venerable Mohican chief who lived in New England in the late 1700s and early 1800s.

So far, though, the relevance of this chief’s connection to the plant species has not been conclusively established.

The catchy common name has been applied to these wildflowers since at least 1818, when it was recorded in Amos Eaton’s work, “A Manual for Botany for the Northern and Middle States.”

In the intervening centuries, many more species of joe-pye weed have been identified. In a bold and sweeping move, botanical taxonomists made a necessary distinction in 2012, moving five species associated with this moniker to the genus Eutrochium.

Mind you, there are still plenty of herbalists today who will tell you about that typhus-curing connection, and many of those who sell or describe these plants still use the Eupatorium label. (I think of this as being similar to some who never converted to the metric system, not as evidence of ill intent.)

Today, whatever the path taken to arrive at that name may have been, these plants are widely appreciated as part of an “old is new again” movement towards native landscaping, and creating pollinator and butterfly gardens.

You can appreciate this appealing though inconclusive backstory, the tough nature of these naturalized plants, their late-blooming show of color, or all of the above.

Whatever draws you to wanting to grow your own healthy joe-pye plants, be it the name or the benefits, we’ve got the step-by-step instructions right here. Let’s get growing!

Propagation

To grow your own joe-pye weed, you’ll need a site that has ample moisture and receives full sun to part shade – more light is preferred, for abundant blooms.

The soil should be fertile and amended with plenty of compost, whether loam or clay. With those requirements in place, here’s how and when to plant:

From Seed

Unless you have a handy source of divisions, or are content with purchasing a few nursery plants, the best way to start more than a couple of these statuesque wildflowers at a time is by planting seeds.

To most closely mimic the natural growing conditions for these native plants, sow the seeds in late summer or early fall, so they can chill properly during the cold months. Keep them moist until they sprout in early spring.

To sow, press them into the surface of soil that has been cultivated a few inches down. They need light to germinate, so don’t cover them with soil.

Plant about seven seeds in groups two or three feet apart, to accommodate joe-pye weed’s low germination rate.

If more than one seed does sprout in a given spot, when the seedlings produce two pairs of true leaves, you can clip the smallest at the soil line and leave the healthiest to grow on.

See also Weed Seeds Canada

The final spacing should allow between two and four feet between plants, depending on the variety.

You may want to apply a lightweight row cover after planting to keep birds from eating the seeds.

Late summer or fall-planted seeds will sprout in early spring. They may bloom that first year, but don’t worry if they hold off until their second growing season to produce flowers. Either timeline is within their typical range.

You can start seeds indoors, but then you’ll need to provide the seeds with the requisite period of “cold stratification,” instead of relying on the wintry weather.

That just means pressing the seeds into the surface of pots of moist soil, popping them into plastic zipper bags, pots and all, and leaving them in the fridge for 30 to 60 days before growing them indoors to plant out in spring.

It’s also possible to store just the seeds in the fridge from fall until spring temperatures are suitable for outdoor sowing, but it’s less likely you’ll get blooms in the first year with this approach.

From Divisions

Divisions can be made from your own mature plants, or you can source donations from a friend.

Make sure your garden bed or other area of the landscape is already prepared with compost and moist soil to receive the new plant.

The stems can only survive out of the ground for a few hours after dividing, and even then you’ll need to wrap the roots gently in a moist towel until you can get them into the soil.

To propagate joe-pye weed from divisions, divide mature plants in the fall as they go dormant. Or, you can wait to divide them until the spring when they begin to send up shoots.

Use a spade to dig out the whole plant and rest it on the ground.

Look for the wide crown of the mature plant. It will have several stems and a tangled root system.

Each piece of stem can become a new plant, but only take half of the total plant for divisions at most, so the parent plant can adjust more readily.

Thrust a sharp-ended trowel downward a couple of inches to separate a stem from the crown, cutting the attached roots at the same time. Gently bring that piece to the surface, and then replant it in its new location.

Plant it at the same depth it was growing when it was part of the parent plant.

Water it in and apply a couple of inches of pesticide- and herbicide-free mulch in a circle a couple inches away from the stem, to keep the soil moist until the plant gets established.

Unless you’re trying to relocate it as well, set the parent plant back in its original hole, and take this opportunity to add a bit of compost when you backfill the opening.

From Transplants

If you buy plants from a nursery or grow seedlings indoors, you can add them to the landscape or garden in late summer or early fall.

To transplant, prepare the bed as you would for seeds or divisions.

Dig a hole for each plant that’s at least three feet from its nearest neighbor, and a little larger than the root ball of your transplant.

Gently tip the plant out of its pot and set it into its hole with the top of the root ball positioned at soil level. Add the same rich, compost-amended soil to fill the hole, tamp lightly, and water deeply at the soil line – not from overhead.

You may also want to mulch transplants with a couple inches of organic material that hasn’t been treated with potentially harmful chemicals, like straw.

Place it a few inches from the center stem. This will help to keep moisture in without killing off the pollinators this wildflower attracts in swarms.

How to Grow

You’ve been promised practically carefree plants, and joe-pye will deliver.

You will need to keep seedlings moist for the first year until they get established, but after that, they can survive a dry spell now and then.

Just make sure to give the plants about an inch of water if it hasn’t rained in any given hot-weather week.

If you’ve planted them in the woods or a meadow, don’t worry about fertilizing these wildflowers.

But when you’re growing in poor or average soil in a garden bed, they will benefit from a side dressing of compost or an application of slow-release fertilizer. Do this chore in early spring, as the perennials are sending up new shoots.

One more thing: Weeds are a problem for young seedlings. They will compete for the water the plants need.

Mulch will keep the weeds down while helping to retain moisture in the soil. If weeds do appear, make sure to pull them.

Growing Tips

• Plant in full sun to part shade.
• Press seeds into the soil surface – they need light to germinate.
• Only grow where the plants will have three feet to spread.
• Keep the soil moist, especially in the first year.
• Prevent weeds with mulch.

Pruning and Maintenance

One maintenance chore when growing joe-pye involves constant deadheading, if you’d prefer that your plants not self-seed.

Note that this won’t encourage new blooms the way it would for some other types of flowers, like bachelor’s buttons, but you will be able to prevent aggressive spreading if that’s your wish.

Wait for the flowers to die first, but perform this task before they become brown and dry, and produce seeds the wind is only too happy to carry to exposed earth elsewhere in the yard or garden.

I’m not the type to fuss like this over a native plant, and I consider their impressive height to be an asset, but some gardeners also like to prune joe-pye a bit later in the growing season.

Clipping the top third of the plants will encourage them to branch more fully and attain a shorter height.

As the blooming season comes to a close, if you object to the appearance of sprawling, dried-up wildflowers in your landscape, you can also trim the spent plants without hurting them.

Do this in late autumn, using clippers and leaving the bottom four to eight inches in place.

Joe-pye goes dormant in the winter, and the leaves will turn black after a hard frost or two. You can clip them at this point if you like, but it’s strictly cosmetic, since the wildflower will grow back with or without the unsightly dead foliage attached.

When your plants are part of a native landscaping scheme or a wildlife garden, you may want to forgo cutting down the dry stalks and leaves.

They provide shelter for songbirds in cold weather, and the stalks give beneficial insects a spot for overwintering.

Other than clipping for cosmetic reasons, these species are hardy wildflowers, and they can pretty much take care of themselves over the winter.

Once they’re three years old, and every few years after that, it’s a good idea to divide them. This will keep the root mass from growing so large that the center of the plant dies off because it’s no longer getting the nutrients it needs.

Dividing is also a good way to stop the plants from spreading too far, or for providing yourself with some starts for transplant.

Time the job for early spring, just as they’re sending up new growth.

See also Growing Weed Seeds In Cotton Balls

With a sharp-edged spade, dig out the entire plant, along with an extra two inches of soil around the perimeter. Thrust the spade into the ground at a right angle, moving all around the plant until the root mass can be lifted.

Ease the whole plant and its root system out of the ground in one big clump.

Then lay it on the soil next to the hole, and use a pruner or soil knife to sever the roots into several pieces, making sure each has stalks attached.

Wearing gloves, gently work the pieces free of each other. Transplant them immediately, following the directions outlined above.

And hey, if you’re the type who can’t wait to plant more and more joe-pye and would like to save seeds in addition to making divisions, you can do that as well!

Start about a month after the flowers have stopped blooming, once you can see that they’re dry and brittle and have turned brown. Use scissors to sever the entire seed head from the stalk.

Place it into a brown paper bag and set it in a cool, dry spot for about three more days to dry completely.

Pluck the seeds off the heads and store them in the fridge in a zipper bag, small canning jar, or plastic container. Leave the seeds in the refrigerator right up until you’re ready to plant next season.

Species and Cultivars to Select

While there are also some unique cultivars available, some of them bred to resist powdery mildew, these four species within the Eutrochium genus offer a good place to start when you are selecting a type to grow.

Botanical taxonomists moved each of these from the genus Eupatorium in 2012, which is so recent that you can still expect many people to refer to them by their former names.

Each of these is commonly referred to as “joe-pye weed,” with perhaps another more specific nickname in use as well, and has a few distinct characteristics to consider. Here’s the scoop:

E. dubium

This species has the intriguing alternative name of “three-nerved joe-pye weed.” A dwarf species that usually grows just three to five feet tall, it can thrive in smaller areas, but still spreads between two and four feet.

The stems are purple-spotted, the leaves are yellowish-green with three deep veins apiece, and the flowers form domed clusters of pale pink to purple florets that are four to seven inches wide.

E. dubium plants are hardy in Zones 4 to 8. ‘Little Joe’ plants are available from Burpee.

E. fistulosum

Known as hollow stem joe-pye weed, E. fistulosum sports muted pink or purplish flowers in clusters that can reach 18 inches across. It’s a butterfly smorgasbord with all that nectar.

The plants grow four to 10 feet tall and spread two to four feet. They are hardy in Zones 4 to 8.

As for that nickname, the smooth, light green stems are indeed hollow. If you leave them alone and let them dry at the end of the season, solitary bees will sometimes seek them out as a place to reside and lay eggs.

‘Alba’ is an attractive option, with white flowers if you’re looking for something a little different.

E. maculatum

Referred to as spotted joe-pye weed, this variety has stalks that are purple or green with purple speckles, hence the nickname.

The mauve or purple flower heads are nearly flat.

E. maculatum is hardy in Zones 4 to 8, and grows three to six feet tall.

“Seed bombs” that include seeds, compost, and soil are one buying option for this variety. They are available in 20-, 50-, 100-, and 200-seed ball packets from Seed-Balls.com via Amazon.

Sometimes listed under other species names, ‘Gateway’ is a popular cultivar.

E. purpureum

Monarchs are just one of the types of butterfly that find E. purpureum so appealing. The vanilla scent is particularly strong in this variety, and the aroma wafting on the breeze attracts butterflies and other pollinators.

Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, this plant, commonly referred to as sweet joe-pye weed, grows to between three and seven feet tall. Its textured leaves are grouped three or four to a whorl, on green stalks.

The leaf joints are purple and they sport delicate hairs.

E. purpureum seeds are available in 120-seed packets from Zellajake Farm and Garden via Amazon.

Managing Pests and Disease

This easy-care wildflower is mostly free of insect problems, and is even resistant to those persistent four-footed pests, the deer and rabbits.

It also eludes most diseases, though you’ll want to watch out for powdery mildew, caused by Golovinomyces orontii.

This fungus can overwinter in soil and spreads its spores via wind. It thrives in high temperatures and intense humidity.

Powdery mildew will appear on foliage as patches of gray-white mildew, and it can harm the wildflower’s ability to get the nutrition it needs via photosynthesis.

To avoid powdery mildew, make sure your plants have plenty of room to grow. Ample air circulation will stop this fungal infection before it starts.

Also avoid watering from overhead, to keep relative humidity lower near the susceptible foliage.

When you grow joe-pye in part shade, there’s a higher risk of powdery mildew, which prospers in low-light conditions. If it’s a persistent problem, consider moving your plants to a sunnier spot.

To keep powdery mildew from obliterating plants that are growing in less substantial light, make sure to observe them often, especially when humidity becomes a factor in the warm months.

If just a few leaves are affected when you notice the splotches, you can clip them off and dispose of them in the trash, and that will probably take care of the problem.

Should you only spot powdery mildew after it’s established a stronghold, fungicides like neem oil can be effective.

Safer Brand Horticultural & Dormant Spray Oil Concentrate is a good option for organic gardens. It’s available in a 16-ounce concentrate from Safer Brand via Amazon.

Though it is not considered common, a 2006 report noted that wild joe-pye weed may serve as a host to tobacco ringspot virus, and the virus can live on plant debris and seeds.

This disease may be transmitted via contaminated tools or hands, and it causes stunted growth, yellowing, and a mottled appearance on leaves, as well as leaf rolling.

Affected plants should be removed from the garden and destroyed.

Best Uses

When you’re employing joe-pye in your garden or landscape, if you have space and can keep the plants moist, the best uses are limited only by your imagination.

Each plant must have at least a couple of feet between it and the nearest plant, wall, or tree, with ample moisture.

Beyond that, though, it’s a beautiful and beneficial addition to native plantings, butterfly gardens, and perennial meadows.

Use the height to complement shorter flowers or ornamental grasses in complementary colors.

This wildflower blooms late in summer and fall, so consider it to continue the show of color when short-season annuals in the garden have gone to seed.

It’s also an MVP at the back of borders or, with its affinity for wet soil, it can be planted in a swampy patch of yard. Consider growing it near a rain spout to disguise the eyesore while the roots drink up any standing water.

One other tip: If you’re employing this pollinator- and songbird-magnet to attract wildlife, see if you can’t place it within view of a window, patio, or porch. That makes it easy to watch the pollinator show from a comfy spot.

See also Hydroponic Weed Seeds

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Perennial wildflower	Flower / Foliage Color:	Pink, purple, white / green
Native to:	North America	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	3-9	Tolerance:	Wet soil, drought once established
Bloom Time:	Late summer-early fall	Soil Type:	Clay or loam, high in organic matter
Exposure:	Full sun-part sun	Soil pH:	Below 8.0
Time to Maturity:	1-2 years	Soil Drainage:	Moderate to moist
Spacing:	3-4 feet	Attracts:	Bees, birds, butterflies, hummingbirds
Planting Depth:	Soil surface (seeds), root ball top even with soil line (transplants)	Companion Planting:	Fellow moisture-loving perennials, ornamental grasses
Height:	4-7 feet	Best Uses:	Beds, borders, native plantings, moist areas in the garden
Spread:	3-4 feet	Family:	Asteraceae
Water Needs:	Moderate	Genus:	Eutrochium
Common Disease:	Powdery mildew, tobacco ringspot virus	Species:	Dubium, fistulosum, maculatum, purpureum, steelei

The Not-So-Average Joe-Pye Weed

If you’re used to high-maintenance flowering plants that are stingy about producing flowers, joe-pye can take some getting used to.

Once established, these plants require almost no maintenance to return year after year with bountiful blooms.

And they provide nectar and pollen for a host of wildlife, not to mention their problem-solving capacity.

I can’t recommend them enough as a solution for high-moisture areas, or spots in the landscape or garden where deer or rabbit damage is nearly impossible to avoid.

What about you? Do you have experience with or feelings about our old friend joe-pye? The comments section below awaits your input!

And for more information about growing flowers in your garden, check out these guides next:

• How to Grow and Care for Bergenia Flowers
• How to Grow and Care for Creeping Phlox
• How to Grow and Care for English Daisies

© Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Burpee, Palala Press, Safer, SeedBalls.com, and Zellajake Farm. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. With additional writing and editing by Allison Sidhu.

Tom’s Blog

Yesterday I spent an hour or so collecting woodland Joe Pye weed ( Eupatorium purpureum ). This species is relatively similar to the wetland Joe Pye weed ( E. maculatum ), but less colorful and better adapted to woodland areas. It is a strikingly tall species that has become established in those parts of our savannas which have more closed canopy (50% or even a bit more).

The best stands of E. purpureum are north of our North Fire Break, just before the steep drop off into the oak woodland. I used the Kawasaki Mule to get in there, and it was an enjoyable day, quiet and peaceful. I got two buckets full of seed heads.

Although the flower heads seem fairly dry, they still need to be dried a few days by spreading them out on a tarp. Once dry, the seeds must be cleaned before using. It is fairly easy to clean the seeds. Just put the flower heads on top of a piece of fairly course screening (available from a hardware store) and scrape them back and forth. The seeds fall through, and the empty stems can be thrown away. Store the seeds in a dry place in a grocery bag until time to plant.

While I was seed collecting, I was also keeping my eye out for small buckthorn that needed spritzing or basal barking. Fortunately, the buckthorns were fairly scattered here, and I proably only treated a couple dozen plants. I carried a spray bottle in my belt pack. We’ll be back in this area in the winter for more extensive buckthorn work. Hopefully, this will be a low snow year so that we can get some work done!

How to Gather & Sow Seeds From Joe Pye Plants

Joe Pye weed (Eupatoriadelphus fistulosus) is a wildflower native to the eastern half of the United States in USDA horticultural zones 3 to 9. It grows to 6 feet tall and has a hollow stem with large oblong leaves up to 10 inches long. The plants can form dense colonies if grown in the right conditions–damp or wet rich soils. The flowers are attractive to a number of butterflies, and the plant can produce flowers during most of the growing season if conditions are suitable. Several improved varieties are available with brighter or darker blooms than the wild version.

Collect Joe Pye weed seeds by finding flower heads that are faded and dry and you can plainly see the tiny thin seeds still attached to the base of the flower heads. Each seed has a tiny bit of fluff attached to it so the wind can carry it away from the mother plant. Carefully cut the stem below where the seeds are attached to the old flower head with hand shears and place the old flower head in a paper bag. Seeds are usually available for harvest in late summer and early fall.

• Joe Pye weed (Eupatoriadelphus fistulosus) is a wildflower native to the eastern half of the United States in USDA horticultural zones 3 to 9.
• The flowers are attractive to a number of butterflies, and the plant can produce flowers during most of the growing season if conditions are suitable.

Shake the seed from the flower heads and store the seeds in the paper bag in a cool (60 to 75 degrees F) location. Store for as long as four weeks without refrigeration if you are planning on planting the seeds in the fall. If you are planting the seeds in the spring and holding them over the winter, store in an open paper bag in the refrigerator for at least six weeks. The cold temperatures increase the sprouting or germination rate.

Locate an area of the garden that stays moist and receives up to six hours of sun each day. Good air circulation around the planting bed is encouraged as Joe Pye weed is susceptible to mildew diseases. Joe Pye weed does not like weed competition, so make your planting area no deeper than 2 feet if planting against a wall or fence or 4 feet wide if planting in beds that have access on both sides. The reason for this is so you can reach into the beds and pull the weeds with damaging the tall, spindly plants.

• Shake the seed from the flower heads and store the seeds in the paper bag in a cool (60 to 75 degrees F) location.

Remove all weeds and grasses from the planting area. Enrich the planting area with as much as a 3-inch layer of compost worked into the top 3 or 4 inches of soil. Rake the area smooth.

Spread the seeds over the planting area and slightly cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil. It is OK if some of the seeds can still be seen on the surface of the soil. Lightly water the seeds so they will adhere to the compost soil mixture and not blow away. If planting in the fall, they should not need any extra moisture until the next spring or summer when the plants need to be watered regularly. If planting in the spring, do not allow the soil to dry out until the plants are actively growing, then water regularly to keep the soil moist, but not wet.

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Crop King Seeds – Sold in over 100 stores in Canada.

Crop King Seed Selection

The selection at Crop King Seeds encompasses a good variety of strains and seed types. They have more than 30 different strains available currently (as of 2022), all of which they have cultivated themselves. Many of these are original strains that have been bred exclusively by Crop King Seeds – strains you can’t get anywhere else. Crop King sells seeds in a variety of categories, including regular, feminized, auto-flower feminized, dwarf auto-flower feminized, medical/high CBD, and a few mix-and-match packs. You can search through all the strains by seed type, which is a handy feature if you’re looking for something specific. Some of their most-renowned strains include Blueberry, Afghani, Dark Angel, Purple Kush, White Cookies, Sour Diesel, Green Crack, Candy Cane, Northern Lights, Amnesia Haze, and Train Wreck. Of course, they also sell a lot more than just these few varieties.

Taking a quick scroll through their product page, you can see that they have a little something for everyone. Whatever it is that you like, you’ll be able to find something that suits you at Crop King Seeds. And on the off chance that you don’t see anything that tickles your fancy, just keep checking back periodically because the grow experts at Crop King are constantly coming up with new strains to offer in their shop – but only after proper testing and quality assurance, of course.

In short, the seed selection at Crop King Seeds may not be quite as extensive as the selection at some other seed banks, but it is well-curated. This means that while other shops may pad out their listings with seed strains of varying qualities, when you buy from Crop King Seeds, you can be sure that everything you see in their shop is of the very highest quality.

Crop King Seeds Review: Why Do So Many Like This Large Seed Bank?

When it comes to growing cannabis seeds, companies like Crop King Seeds make it easy for beginner growers and well-seasoned enthusiasts. Purchasing from online seeds banks is easy.

See also How Long Do Marijuana Seeds Last

Many companies offer several varieties to choose from, provide stealth shipping, and have a fantastic customer service team. Growing the seeds is even easy since most companies offer growing guidelines and detailed instructions.

Crop King’s reputation is dependent on delivering on all of these fronts. Still, they also have to offer the highest quality seeds around to maintain their position as a top seed bank in the cannabis industry. But is buying seeds online from this company all that is cracked up to be?

In this honest review of Crop King Seeds, we’ll examine why this company has become one of the most popular online seed banks. We’ll dive deeper into such questions as: Is their seed quality worth the price? Are there any added benefits that Crop King seeds offer? Let’s explore this Canadian seed bank company.

A Bit About Crop King Seeds

As a person begins to buy seeds online, they are inundated with many options. All promising great seed genetics guaranteed germination rates, the highest quality cannabis seed or marijuana seed, the lowest prices, or the best shipping.

One name seems to keep coming up as a reputable cannabis seed bank.

Formed in 2005, their wide variety of cannabis seeds has made them one of the more popular seed banks online. Customers that comment on Crop King Seeds in online forums or company reviews point to them offering high-quality seeds with superior genetics.

Crop King Seeds were one of the first seed banks to introduce marijuana commercially. They were also instrumental in promoting the testing of CBN and CBD strains of marijuana. Over the years, Crop King Seeds continues to maintain its place as a company with a good reputation, quality products, stealth shipping (even toll-free shipping).

Enjoying your read? Sign up to be a part of the CBD School community, and we’ll send you a free eBook called The Beginner’s Guide to CBD. It will get you caught up in all things CBD. Additionally, you’ll get updates on the best CBD products and discounts in the industry.

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Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is the famous orange milkweed species native from Canada to Florida. Needs fast-draining soil and full sun. Perennial How to Plant Butterfly Weed Seeds. Sometimes called pleurisy root, butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is a perennial wildflower grown for its showy, reddish-orange flower clusters and textured, lanceolate leaves. It thrives throughout U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 10, where it is … How do I germinate butterfly weed seeds? Harvest the seed pods of butterfly weed when the pods begin to split. Seeds can be sown directly outdoors in late fall or started indoors. When sowing

Butterfly Weed Seeds

To determine if a plant is sufficiently cold hardy, the USDA created numbered zones indicating winter low temperatures; the lower the zone number the colder the winter.

• If the coldest winter temperature expected in your area is -15°F (zone 5) then any plants rated zones 3-5 will survive the winter temperatures in your area.
• If you live in very warm winter areas (zones 9-11) plants with zones 3-4 ratings are not recommended. The lack of freezing winter temperatures do not provide a time for winter dormancy (rest).

Find Your Planting Zone:

Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is one of our great North American native flowers with rich Indian and medicinal history. The brilliant orange blooms light up meadows dramatically, and of course, visits by butterflies are a bonus. This wildflower, also prized as a garden perennial, is not easy to grow, but once established, is a tough, dependable colormaker.

Native Range for Asclepias tuberosa (Butterfly Weed) – AL, AR, AZ, CA, CO, CT, DC, DE, FL, GA, IA, IL, IN, KS, KY, LA, MA, MD, ME, MI, MN, MO, MS, NC, NE, NH, NJ, NM, NY, OH, OK, PA, RI, SC, SD, TN, TX, UT, VA, VT, WI, WV.

Attract Butterflies To Your Garden With Milkweed!

Understanding Milkweed (Asclepias) Seed & Germinating

Germination: To start Milkweed seed we recommend starting inside, but before this happens Milkweed seeds need to go through a cold stratification period. Cold stratification is very important for the germination and growth of Milkweed. It helps break the seeds natural dormancy cycle. To do this, we recommend placing Milkweed seed in a damp paper towel or damp sand in a zip lock bag and place in your fridge for 3 – 6 weeks (30 days). Place in an area of the fridge, where it won’t get damaged. We taped ours to the bottom of a refrigerator shelf.

Growing Indoors

Planting In Spring: Once the 30 days are complete, it’s time to plant the cold stratified Milkweed (asclepias) seeds. We recommend planting in 2-4” peat pots. Fill peat pots ¾ of the way with seed starting potting soil and gently add water. Water should be able to drain through the peat pots. Once the soil is damp, place 1-2 cold stratified seeds into each pot. To finish, place 1/4 inch of soil on top of the seed.

Planting In Fall: If you’re planting Milkweed seed in the fall, let nature do the cold stratification for you! There is no need to place your seeds in the refrigerator before planting, you can plant seeds directly into the soil after there have been a few frosts in your area. This allows for the seeds to remain dormant for the winter and come up in the early spring. Clear away any existing growth and using your index finger to measure, create 1.5″ holes for each Milkweed seed. We recommend spacing seeds about 4-6” apart. Place a seed in each hole and cover. Water thoroughly.

See also How To Get Seeds From Marijuana

Watering: Gently water the planted seed to give additional hydration. The best way to water is from the bottom up. Use a flat pan under the peat pots and add a half inch of water to the bottom of the tray. Don’t over water as it can cause fungus. Water every day or every other day as needed, the best way to test the soil dampness is to touch it. If the soil seems dry then add water; if it’s wet, wait for the soil to dry out to water.

Light Requirements: For the next few weeks, make sure the Milkweed is either in a sunny window, in a green house or under a grow light. Milkweed needs lots of sun and warmth to grow. If you’re using a grow light, make sure to lower the bulb closer to the pots or your seedlings may become leggy, as they stretch to the light. In our experiment, this happened to us. Ideally a sturdier stem is better. Cold stratified seeds should germinate and sprout within 10-15 days once planted. In total Milkweed from the day they are cold stratified to growth can take 40 plus days, so be patient!

Other planting options: Place dry seed (not stratified) in seed starting soil and plant in peat pots under a grow light or in a greenhouse to germinate seeds. The success rate for this is low and more difficult to accomplish. If you choose to use this option it can take months for the seeds to germinate.

If you are planting seed outside, we suggest seeding in late fall, and let the Milkweed seed lay on the ground through winter. Milkweed seed will have a long winter of dormancy, so once the sun comes out and the ground warms in the spring, the seeds will germinate on their own.

Transplanting Milkweed (Asclepias) Seedling Outdoors

Where to Plant: Milkweed does well in open areas with full sunlight exposure areas like fields, parks, cultivated gardens, roadsides, highway medians, and road sides. We suggest transplanting Milkweed when the plant is no larger than 3 inches tall. In most cases in transplanting, the Milkweed plant will go though some shock and could lose all its leaves. This happens, don’t panic. The plant is trying to establish its roots and will eventually grow leaves again. This is the main reason we suggest planting seeds in peat pots, because Milkweed roots are very sensitive. Peat Pots breakdown over time in the ground, which allows the milkweed roots to grows without being disrupted. We found this to be the best way to transplant. If you decide to plant in plastic containers, but make sure it’s deep enough for roots to grow. If you receive a plant already grown in plastic, be careful to take out the plant and not disturb the roots.

When to plant: Soil moisture and temperature are very important when growing Milkweed. The best time to plant Milkweed is in early spring after the danger of frost has passed. If you plant seeds late in the spring, the seeds may not grow due to Common Milkweed Field Grown germination time and temperature. Common Milkweed seed doesn’t germinate over 85 degrees.

Caring For Milkweed (Asclepias) Plants

Once your seedling is planted, water it for a few days to get it established, but after that, the plant doesn’t need a lot of supplemental water. Only water if you have an unusual dry spell. Peat pots are nice to use, but you need to be sure there is no top edge above the soil line after transplanting. In dry climates, this will wick away valuable soil moisture. A small 2 1/2″ diameter x 3 in. deep pot is ideal. Asclepias are somewhat finicky native plants. So minimizing the time growing in a pot and transplanting them as young plants is the best approach.

See also Is It Illegal To Buy Marijuana Seeds

As soon as your order is placed you will receive a confirmation email. You will receive a second email the day your order ships telling you how it has been sent. Depending upon your order date, we may hold your shipment to combine it with other products on your order, if applicable. See our shipping information page for approximate ship dates and more detailed information. If you have any questions, please call Customer Service toll-free at (877) 309-7333 or contact us by email.

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Shipping Rates

Our shipping rates are calculated based on our actual average shipping costs. We do not seek to profit from shipping fees, so rest assured that our shipping rates reflect an average of what it costs to get our guaranteed products safely to your door.

US Shipping Charges

Merchandise Total	Shipping Charges
Up to $4.99	$7.99
$5 to $399.99	$7.99 + 6% Merchandise Total
$400 and Over	8% Merchandise Total

Canadian Shipping Charges

Merchandise	Shipping Charges
Up to $24.99	$14.95
$25 to $49.99	$19.95
$50 to $74.99	$24.95
$75 to $99.99	$29.95
$100 and Over	$39.95

If your order requires more than one shipment and all items are shipping to the same address, there is no additional shipping charge. If you have any questions, please call us at (877) 309-7333.

How to Plant Butterfly Weed Seeds

Sometimes called pleurisy root, butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is a perennial wildflower grown for its showy, reddish-orange flower clusters and textured, lanceolate leaves. A member of the milkweed family, it thrives throughout U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 9, where it is frequently added to butterfly gardens and native plant landscaping.

Butterfly weed and milkweed seed pods may be harvested and planted to support Monarch butterfly caterpillars. Butterfly weed grows well from seeds, which must be harvested in late summer and either sown immediately in the garden, or started in spring after a lengthy chilling process. The seeds are viable and will germinate with little care, although they must be planted at the appropriate depth to ensure successful sprouting.

Gather the butterfly weed seeds in late summer or autumn, once the pods dry to a light, rosy-beige color, but before they split open. Put on rubber gloves before handling the pods to protect your hands from the mildly toxic sap.

Before you begin to harvest the butterfly weed pods, sterilize your cutting tools. Dip the blades into a full-strength household cleanser, such as Lysol or Pine-Sol. Repeat between cuts to prevent the spread of diseases.

Snip off the pod using pruning shears. Slice lengthwise along the edge using a utility knife. Pry open the seed pods. Scoop out the seeds and fluffy matter inside and place it in a bucket.

Leave the bucket outdoors for two or three days to let the fluff blow away. Stir the seeds occasionally to loosen more fluff. Do not worry if some of the fluff remains, since it won’t inhibit the germination process.

Place the butterfly weed seeds in a plastic bag filled with 1 cup of moistened perlite. Store the bag inside the refrigerator for three months. Mist the perlite with water every few days to keep it from drying out completely.

See also Black Weed Seeds

Prepare peat or other biodegradable pots before removing the butterfly weed seeds from the refrigerator. Fill 3-inch starter pots with a mixture of half seed-starting compost and half coarse sand. Moisten the mix and press it firm.

Make a 1/4-inch-deep planting hole in the center of compost mixture. Drop one butterfly weed seed in the planting hole. Cover it with a loose layer of compost. Mist the compost to settle it.

Arrange the starter pots on a propagation mat near a source of bright, indirect light such as near a partly shaded south-facing window. Set the temperature on the propagation mat to 86 F during the day. Turn it off at night.

Water the butterfly weed seeds whenever the compost feels barely damp when pressed. Apply the water by the spoonful or use a spray bottle to keep from dislodging the seeds.

Watch for germination in two to three weeks. Turn off the propagation mat one week after the seeds sprout. Move the pots into a cold frame outdoors or against a south-facing wall with noonday shade.

Transplant the butterfly weed into a permanent bed in spring just after the last frost. If planting butterfly weed in clay soil, dig in 2 to 4 inches of compost to lighten the soil, or consider building raised beds to increase drainage.

Spread a 1-inch-thick layer of mulch around each plant. Water weekly to a 2-inch depth during their first summer, then cease supplemental irrigation.

How do I germinate butterfly weed seeds?

Harvest the seed pods of butterfly weed when the pods begin to split. Seeds can be sown directly outdoors in late fall or started indoors.

When sowing seeds outdoors, work up the soil in a protected location in early to mid-November. Scatter the seeds over the prepared seed bed and then cover the seeds with approximately 1/4 inch of soil. The cold, moist conditions over winter improve seed germination. Seedlings should emerge in spring. Carefully transplant the seedlings to their permanent locations when the seedlings are 3 to 4 inches tall.

To start seeds indoors, fill a flat with a commercial germination medium (such as Jiffy Mix). Moisten the medium. Scatter the seeds over the surface of the germination medium and lightly press the seeds into the material. Cover the seeds with an additional 1/4 inch of the germination mix. Carefully moisten the additional material. Slide the flat in a plastic bag and place the bagged flat in the refrigerator. Leave the flat in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 weeks. After 4 to 6 weeks, remove the flat from the refrigerator and place it in an area with a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Seeds should begin to germinate in 3 to 4 weeks. (If no seedlings appear after 4 weeks, place the flat back in the refrigerator for another 4 to 6 weeks and repeat the process.) Take the flat out of the plastic bag as soon as seedlings appear and place the flat under fluorescent lights in a 60 to 65 degree Fahrenheit location. Transplant the seedlings into individual pots when the seedlings are 1 to 2 inches tall. Continue to grow the seedlings indoors under fluorescent lights for several more weeks. Prior to planting outdoors, place the seedlings outdoors in a shady, protected location and then gradually expose the seedlings to longer periods of direct sun. Plant the seedlings in their permanent locations after they have hardened outdoors for 10 to 14 days.

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Nutrient Matters is a recurring series focusing on plant nutrition by university researchers. Marijuana pH and water For marijuana growers, whether using soil, soilless or hydro methods, pH levels can make a huge difference to your success and yields. In this article we will take a closer Learn how to germinate marijuana seeds on your FIRST try! Reach 100% seed germination rates by using our step-by-step tutorial.

New Research Results: Optimal pH for Cannabis

Nutrient Matters is a recurring series focusing on plant nutrition by university researchers.

The recommended substrate pH for cannabis (Cannabis sativa) varies widely. A recommended substrate pH of 6.0 to 6.5 often is cited as the standard. However, we have observed pH ranges between 4.0 and 5.0 or greater than 7.0 during our visits to commercial greenhouses growing cannabis.

Our observations from those greenhouses indicated that plants grown at acidic (lower) pH appear to have normal growth and lack the symptomology of lower leaf blackening or bronzing typically seen with other greenhouse species at lower pH levels. In crops grown at higher pH, only in rare instances did we observe interveinal chlorosis of the upper (youngest) leaves (a common symptom of greenhouse crops grown at high pH). These observations suggest that cannabis is not prone to iron deficiencies when the substrate pH nears 7.0.

Returning to our labs at North Carolina State University (NCSU), we began our work to understand the underlying factors affecting pH in substrates and how those fluctuations impact the Cannabis sativa plant in order to determine the optimal pH range for cannabis.

This is what we discovered.

pH on the Range

Substrate pH is important to plant nutrition because it directly impacts plant nutrient availability.

Substrate pH levels below 5.0 result in increased micronutrient availability that can lead to iron (Fe) toxicity or manganese (Mn) toxicity, or both. Symptoms of Fe toxicity and Mn toxicity may appear as black speckling on older leaves (observed with zinnias or gerbera) or as bronzing (observed with marigolds or seed geraniums). While some crops display low pH symptoms on lower leaves, others may only display low pH through stunted growth, as is the case with poinsettias.

In our initial experiments at NCSU, we did not observe symptomology of lower leaf blackening or bronzing on Cannabis sativa plants, only stunted growth. These preliminary results suggested that cannabis can regulate micronutrient uptake under low substrate pH conditions similar to a poinsettia.

When the substrate pH becomes too high, many species develop interveinal chlorosis (yellowing) on the youngest leaves. This is a common situation that occurs with many greenhouse-grown species (such as petunias) when the elevated pH makes micronutrients, such as Fe, unavailable to the plant, even if adequate levels are provided in the fertilizer.

We did not observe symptomology of interveinal chlorosis in cannabis plants grown at pH 7.0 in our initial experiments at NCSU, either. Iron uptake can also be hindered by over-irrigation, cold substrate temperatures or root disease such as Pythium. In other experiments at NCSU, we did observe the development of interveinal chlorosis on plants with a pH of 7.8. This observation provides more refinement of the upper pH limit and would suggest that the pH should be lower than 7.5.

The preliminary results of NCSU’s research imply that vegetative stock plants of cannabis have a wide substrate pH range in which the plants will optimally grow. That range appears to be as wide as pH 5.0 to 7.0. Based on experience with other species, a narrower range of 5.5 to 6.5 may be more appropriate to target, as this will allow growers to more easily adjust as pH approaches the ends of the targeted range.

For growers, utilizing these pH values in a monitoring system such as the PourThru method implies that the safe pH zone to target would be a narrower 5.8 to 6.2. If pH drops below 5.8 or above 6.2, corrective procedures should begin to adjust the pH back into the 5.8 to 6.2 range.

(Note: These values are for plants grown in greenhouse conditions with a soilless substrate (growing medium). Optimal ranges for field-based growing conditions typically would move up the lower and the upper range by 0.5 pH units to 6.2 to 6.7—as field soils latch on to more nutrients than a soilless substrate such as peat or coir, and risk of nutrient lock-up is lessened.)

How to Correct pH

Again, when the pH drifts into unwanted territory, adjustments must be made. Below are standard corrective procedures used to modify substrate pH for plants grown in soilless substrates in greenhouses and adapted for cannabis.

1. Low Substrate pH Correction When Fe toxicity and Mn toxicity become a problem, raise substrate pH to the recommended pH range. Corrective procedures to raise low pH levels are listed on p. 52 (Table 1). Switching to an alkaline fertilizer when substrate pH is nearing the lower limit will help stabilize the pH.

Flowable Lime

To make small adjustments of roughly 0.5 pH units, mix 1 to 2 quarts of flowable lime per 100 gallons of water. If using an injector, avoid using higher concentrations of flowable lime as it will damage it. If higher rates are needed, then split your applications to avoid damaging your injector. To avoid leaf burn, it is best to rinse the foliage after treatment if any flowable lime comes in contact with the leaves.

Hydrated Lime

For more stubborn low-pH problems, use a hydrated lime mixture. Mix 1 pound of hydrated lime in 3 to 5 gallons of warm water. Mix it twice and let it settle after each mixing. Once the sediment collects in the bottom of the container, pour the liquid through your injector system set at a 1:15 ratio. This product is corrosive, so rinse the foliage as soon as possible to avoid leaf burn, and avoid skin contact.

Potassium Bicarbonate (KHCO₃)

Potassium bicarbonate should be handled with care. It can throw off your substrate chemistry as it provides 993 ppm of potassium (K) in mixtures of 2 pounds per 100 gallons of water. Rinse the foliage immediately after application via injectors and leach heavily the following day with a complete fertilizer to reduce substrate electrical conductivity (EC) and restore nutrient balance. The 2-pounds rate will increase the substrate pH by roughly 0.8 pH units. Rates greater than 2 pounds per 100 gallons of water can cause phytotoxicity.

As always, remember to recheck your substrate pH to determine if reapplications are needed.

2. High Substrate pH Correction The target pH for cannabis is between 5.8 and 6.2. Higher pH values may result in Fe deficiency and create interveinal chlorosis on upper leaves. Check the substrate pH to determine if it is too high. Be careful when lowering the substrate pH, as low pH can be more problematic and difficult to manage.

Cannabis plant growth is less vigorous at low substrate pH levels.

Acid-Based Fertilizer

If the substrate pH is beginning to increase, consider switching to an acidic-based fertilizer. These ammoniacal nitrogen (N)-based fertilizers are naturally acidic, and plant nitrogen uptake will help moderate the substrate pH over a week or two.

See also Spirit Weed Seed

Acid Water Drench

Some growers use this intermediate correction when pH levels are not excessively high and a quick lowering of substrate pH is desired. Sulfuric acid is recommended to acidify irrigation water to a pH 4.0 to 4.5. Apply this acid water as a substrate drench, providing 5 percent to 10 percent excessive leaching of the substrate. Rinse the foliage to avoid phytotoxicity. Results should be visible within five days. Retest the substrate pH and repeat if needed.

Iron Drench

If the levels are excessively high, then a Fe chelate application can be made to the substrate.

• Iron-EDDHA can be mixed at a ratio of 5 ounces per 100 gallons of water.
• Iron-DTPA can be mixed at a ratio of 5 ounces per 100 gallons of water.
• Iron sulfate can be mixed at a ratio of 4 ounces to 8 ounces per 100 gallons of water.

Apply the iron as a substrate drench with enough volume to leach the pot, and rinse the foliage immediately after application.

Conclusions

Based on grower observations and initial experiments at NCSU, it is possible to grow cannabis with a wider soilless substrate pH range than most other species. Cannabis plants do not appear prone to develop leaf symptomology when substrate pH is too low or too high compared to the current general greenhouse standards—only plant stunting occurs at sub-optimal conditions.

Therefore, based on research and experience with other species, a wider range of 5.5 to 6.5 may be used. When adapting these values to a monitoring system, the recommended pH zone to target would be 5.8 to 6.2. By monitoring the substrate pH over time, one can assure that plants are within the optimal range.

Brian Whipker, Turner Smith and Paul Cockson are from Department of Horticultural Science, North Carolina State University, Raleigh, N.C. Hunter Landis is from North Carolina Dept. of Agriculture and Consumer Services, Raleigh, N.C.

Marijuana pH and water

For marijuana growers, whether using soil, soilless or hydro methods, pH levels can make a huge difference to your success and yields. In this article we will take a closer look at pH values and discuss why you need to know about them and how that knowledge can help you become a better grower.

What is pH?

So, let’s start at the beginning. pH is the measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a given substance. Technically it is about the concentration of hydrogen ions. A pH of 7.0 is totally neutral, 1.0 to 6.9 is acidic and 7.1 to 14.0 is alkaline. When using a pH scale it is important to know that the decimal points really count. The pH scale is a logarithmic scale which means that for every one point of pH, the concentration changes by a factor of ten. For example, an increase in pH from 7.0 to 8.0 is actually a tenfold increase, so be aware!

Why is pH Important in Growing marijuana?

• The optimum pH for marijuana in soil is around 6.3 – 6.8
• The optimum pH for marijuana in soilless or hydro is around 5.5 – 6.1

pH in Soil

When growing marijuana in soil you are less likely to run into pH problems, especially if you are using especially mixed soils that feed the plant throughout its life, without having to add any liquid nutrients. It is said that the soil acts as a buffer, this means that it helps slow the change of pH values as opposed to hydro systems where changes in pH take effect much more quickly.

• The same thing happens when you grow marijuana in soil in containers. When you add water the pH of the soil changes and the whole range of nutrients become available to your plant as the soil slowly dries out again;
• This means that some nutrients that are otherwise dormant in the soil become available when it is wet.
• If you are using tapwater, make sure you let it sit in a bucket or reservoir for a few days to allow it to dechlorinate. Then check the pH to make sure it is within your required range.

pH in Hydro

If you grow marijuana in a hydroponics system then pH management is a much more important issue. With no soil to act as a buffer changes in your pH values take effect much more quickly. With hydro grows allowing your pH to fluctuate within a prescribed range is important as it allows all of the nutrients in the solution to become available to the plant in turn. Luckily, this happens naturally as the pH of the solution in your hydroponic reservoir will drift over time. When making up the nutrient solution for your hydro set up, always mix the separate components in the water. Never mix them together directly. This can cause them to chemically react with each other and may change their desired properties. Mix your nutrients gently. Overly vigorous mixing adds oxygen to the solution and this will temporarily raise pH levels. Some growers like to shake their solution vigorously to add oxygen which is good for the roots. If you like to do this, do it after you have checked and adjusted the pH. Make your mix in a clean reservoir and check the pH. Let the mix stand for an hour and check the pH again. The pH of nutrient solutions often changes quite quicklywithin the first hour so you should recheck and adjust as necessary.

Making adjustments to pH

If you are topping up your solution, or adjusting the pH in your reservoir, try not to subject the plants to drastic changes in pH. Large swings in pH will stress them. Make changes slowly. Do not mix nutrients or pH regulators directly into the plants’ reservoir. Make a mix in a separate container first then add that to your reservoir so that changes take place slowly. Remember that pH drift is not only normal, it’s desirable. Allow the pH in your reservoir to change gradually, but make sure you keep within the range of 5.5 to 6.5.

Checking pH

Although many soil growers don’t bother, a pH tester is a crucial piece of kit for the serious marijuana grower. There are a couple of options that are available to you. Digital Meter – This is by far the easiest, most popular and most accurate method for checking your pH levels. Digital pH meters are easy to work, just insert the probe and read the pH levels off of the digital read out. pH Strips – Cheaper to buy initially, but more expensive in the long run, and more hassle. pH strips turn a specific color depending on the pH. You then compare the color to an index and that gives you the pH value. If you are trying to measure the pH of your soil you will need to make up a soil solution in water. You should measure pH periodically as part of your plant maintenance program. With experience you will need to measure less often as you get your set up dialled in. Special care should be taken to measure pH when you seriously change the nutrient regime you are following, when flipping to 12/12 for example.

See also Feminized Cannabis Seeds Pros And Cons

Adjusting pH

So, having checked the pH levels of your nutrient solution you find that it is out. How do you adjust it? The best answer is to buy proprietary pH Up and pH Down solutions. There are lots of forum posts by people who add vinegar or baking powder to adjust pH. Whilst there is some convincing evidence of this working, we recommend using proprietary solutions for reliable results.

pH Up is a strong alkali formula for raising pH. The one from General Hydroponics is made from a base of Potassium Hydroxide and Potassium Carbonate.

pH Down is an acid based formula for lowering pH. General Hydroponics up/down is made from a base of Phosphoric Acid.

As explained above, adjust the pH of your solution a little at a time. Try to use only either Up or Down. If you overshoot with one and then have to readjust with the other you can end up unnecessarily stressing your plants. Mix up a little of the required pH adjuster in a separate jug. Then add them a little at a time to your reservoir. Allow time for the whole reservoir to even out and settle. Better to get it right with 3 slight adjustments than have it wildly swinging up and down.

How to Germinate Cannabis Seeds

An in-depth guide on how to germinate cannabis seeds. Discover different techniques on how to germinate marijuana seeds to ensure a successful cannabis crop.

Everything has a beginning.

Cannabis seeds, like all seeds, must undergo the germination process before it can grow into a weed-yielding beauty.

Countless cannabis germination guides litter the internet. However, none go as in-depth as our seed germination tutorial. Read along to learn how to germinate marijuana seeds like a pro.

You’ll discover everything you need to know about the art of germinating marijuana seeds. From the necessary equipment to different germination methods and everything in between, we’ve got you covered.

The Chemistry Behind Cannabis Seed Germination

Cannabis seeds require the right conditions to sprout.

Without the proper temperature, moisture level, or oxygen saturation, weed seeds will not germinate. Although you can readily germinate seeds outdoors, nothing beats controlled germination indoors.

Let’s take a look at the three primary elements that influence the germination rates of marijuana seeds.

Water

Water is the key player in the process of germinating marijuana seeds.

The outer-layer of the cannabis seed acts as a protective casing that provides a two-fold defense — prevent damage to the inner embryo and prevent minimal moisture from premature germination.

However, if the marijuana seed is saturated with water, it will eventually absorb the moisture and kick-off the germination process.

Oxygen

Once the embryo activates through water saturation, it requires oxygen to jump-start the respiration process. Oxygen fuels respiration, which unlocks food stored within the embryo.

Energy

After the respiration process, the embryo consumes the food stores, which in turn produces energy. Energy is the necessary product that propels the germination stage onwards.

Warmth

Even if cannabis seeds have access to water, oxygen, and energy, it’s all for nothing unless it has access to warmth.

As long as cannabis seeds experience 72-78°F during the initial germination process — they’ll burst forth from the ground and spread their primordial leaves under the sun or artificial light.

The three most important elements for successful weed seed germination

Why It’s Important to Germinate Weed Seeds Indoors

At its core, the germination process lays the foundation of cannabis plants.

Overall, marijuana plants will underperform without proper germination techniques compared to those that experienced ideal conditions during the germination process. Therefore, it’s always best to harness an indoor environment when germinating marijuana seeds.

What to Look For Before Germinating Marijuana Seeds

Before you begin the germination process, there are a few things you must look for.

Let’s take a brief look at each.

Damaged Marijuana Seeds

Ordering feminized or autoflowering cannabis seeds online is the best way to acquire top-shelf genetics.

The seeds, however, may experience a few bumps on the road during the shipping process. With this in mind, you must look over each seed to ensure there isn’t any damage.

As long as each weed seed is undamaged, the germination process will be smooth.

The Cannabis Seed’s Age

Next, it’s a good idea to write down the date on each seed pack once received.

By doing so, you’ll have a clear understanding of a seeds’ age. Like all things, cannabis seeds lose their luster as the years go by. Cannabis seeds may remain viable for decades. However, germination rates decrease over time.

Therefore, you should only germinate seeds that are properly stored for a maximum of 6-months.

The Cannabis Seeds Color

Lastly, you must check the cannabis seed’s color.

Cannabis seeds come in different sizes and exhibit various markings across the outer seed coat. However, the seed’s color is an excellent indicator that represents seed maturity.

In other words, light green to pale white seeds are immature and are likely unviable. Therefore, always make sure that your cannabis seeds are light to dark brown color before germination.

Take a close look at the seeds that you receive for damage or discoloration

Should You Use a Seedling Heat Mat?

Many new cannabis cultivators ask if they should incorporate a seedling heat mat into the equation.

Although seedling heat mats are excellent tools to ensure fast germination, they are not always necessary. Seedling heat mats work by producing a gentle warmth that won’t rapidly dry cannabis seeds during the germination process.

However, they may be overkill if you utilize them during hot days, such as those during the summer months. Alternatively, they are essential during colder months during the winter. Therefore, you can choose to harness a seedling heat mat based on the time of year that you choose to germinate marijuana seeds.

Three Easy Methods To Germinate Cannabis Seeds Indoors

Now that you have a broad understanding of germinating marijuana seeds let’s get some weed seeds poppin‘ with a few different step-by-step tutorials.

You’ll have a better idea of which germination technique to choose once you’re done reading this section.

1. How to Germinate Marijuana Seeds in Soil in Five Easy Steps

If you want to germinate weed seeds au natural — there’s no better option than using soil.

Here’s a list of what you’ll need to germinate cannabis seeds in soil:

• Feminized or autoflowering cannabis seeds
• Eco-friendly “starting” container
• Soil
• Water
• Label
• Heat mat (optional)

As you can see, the list above isn’t extensive in the least. In other words, germinating marijuana seeds in soil is incredibly affordable.

Step One

First, fill an eco-friendly starting container with soil.

The golden rule? Don’t pack down the soil. Remember, the soil you choose must exhibit a loamy consistency. Hardpack soil does not allow proper water drainage and oxygen circulation, which, as you learned previously, are critical components for the seed germination process.

Furthermore, if you choose to use a heat mat, place the eco-friendly containers on top to warm the medium adequately.

Step Two

Label each container.

The last thing you want to do is forget what seed you placed into each container — especially if you’re germinating multiple cannabis strains at once.

See also Mimosa Seeds Weed

Step Three

Now, it’s time to sow the cannabis seed.

Create a small hole that’s roughly 0.25-inches (6mm) deep. Gently place the seed inside the hole and cover it. It does not matter which direction you put the seed — believe us when we say that the seed and gravity will sort things out.

It’s important to note that each eco pot should contain a single cannabis seed.

Step Four

Gently pour a small amount of water into the area where you buried the cannabis seed.

At this point, you must ensure that the cannabis seed never dries out. Once the germination process begins — there’s no turning back. Therefore, allowing cannabis seeds to dry will guarantee inadequate germination or premature death.

Ultimately, you must monitor the soil and continuously apply water until the seed sprouts.

Step Five

The final step is patience.

The moment the seed is planted, most beginners ask: how long does it take to germinate cannabis seeds, or how can I germinate my seeds fast?

Healthy cannabis seeds typically break the surface within 2-4-days. Older seeds, however, may take upwards of 12-days to sprout.

The germination phase is an incredibly vulnerable moment for cannabis seeds. Therefore, Do not — we repeat — do not dig up the seed to “check on it.”

This is what you can expect after you successfully germinate your cannabis seeds in soil

2. How to Germinate Marijuana Seeds Using Paper Towels In Five Easy Steps

One of the most popular germination techniques is the paper towel method.

Here’s a list of what you’ll need for this low-budget method:

• Feminized or autoflowering seeds
• Dinner plate
• Paper towels
• Spray bottle
• Labels
• Heat mat (optional)

Now that you’ve gathered the necessary supplies let’s get crackin‘.

Step One

Place two to three sheets of paper towels on top of a clean dinner plate. If you decide to use a heat mat to increase the temperature, place it under the dinner plate.

Step Two

Label the dinner plate with the name of the cannabis strain of choice.

Step Three

Place up to 10-seeds per plate.

You must make sure that a minimum of 1-inch adequately separates the seeds.

Step Four

Spray water on the seeds until the paper towels are completely saturated. Once done, place a new layer of 2-3 paper towel sheets on top of the seeds. Use the spray bottle to soak the new paper towel addition.

Remember: the paper towels must always remain saturated with water. If allowed to dry, the cannabis seeds will fail to germinate.

Step Five

The germination process should occur within 24-48-hours. After 48-hours, gently peel back the upper paper towel section. If the seeds germinate, you will see cracked-open seeds with an emerging radicle.

At this point, it’s time to move the germinated seed to its new home with a pair of tweezers. This final step requires extreme care because the radicle is fragile, and if broken, the embryo within will die.

Be careful when you use the paper towel method and make sure to label each plate

3. How to Germinate Marijuana Seeds Using Rooting Cubes in Five Easy Steps

Germinating weed seeds with rooting cubes is the ideal method for beginners and professionals alike.

Overall, rooting cubes provide the ease of the paper towel method and the soil technique’s efficiency. Let’s take a look at everything you need to when germinating marijuana seeds with rooting cubes.

• Feminized or autoflowering seeds
• Rooting cubes
• pH 6.0 water
• Rooting tray
• Labels
• pH meter and pH up or down
• Heat mat (optional)

Step One

First and foremost, place the rooting cubes in the rooting tray. If you decide to use a heat mat, place the tray on top.

Step Two

Next, label each rooting cube or tray with the appropriate name of each cannabis strain.

Step Three

Use a pH meter and pH solution to achieve a pH of 6.0.

The amount of water you pH depends on the number of rooting cubes. Start with one cup of water if you are germinating less than ten seeds.

Germination cubes require a pH of 6.0 because they are typically made from peat moss, rockwool, or other soilless-based mediums. Therefore, a pH of 6.0 will ensure the best possible results once the seed germinates.

Step Four

Each rooting cube is equipped with a pre-made hole.

Place one cannabis seed per hole. You may tear off a small piece of the substrate to cover the opening. Once done, saturate the rooting cube with pH 6.0 water.

You must make sure that the rooting cube never dries out. Remember, cannabis seeds must remain moist until they sprout to the surface.

Step Five

Once again, patience is the final step when you learn how to germinate cannabis seeds with rooting cubes. Overall, cannabis seeds may emerge from the rooting cube within 2-4-days. However, germination may take as long as 7-days.

There are a lot of rooting cubes to choose from, but the germination process remains the same

How to Germinate Old Cannabis Seeds

Now that you understand how to germinate healthy cannabis seeds let’s quickly discover how to germinate old marijuana seeds.

As you become infatuated with the world of cannabis, you’ll soon begin to stack an extensive seed collection. Don’t worry; we’re all seed hoarders at heart because there are so many incredible cannabis genetics out there.

Eventually, however, you’ll notice that you have more than a few old cannabis seeds. Luckily for you — all is not lost.

Here’s our tried and true technique to give your old seeds a boost during the germination process.

Cannabis Seed Scarification

Scarring cannabis seeds is incredibly simple.

All you need is a nail file or a piece of sandpaper. Use the file or sandpaper across the surface of the seed in question. You do not need to use an immense amount of force, but instead, a few good scrapes to scar the seed’s outer shell will do.

The point of seed scarification is to allow water to penetrate the seed coating easily. By doing so, the embryo receives a jump start that initiates the germination process.

Once the seeds are scarred, you may choose one of the three above mentioned techniques to complete the germination process.

A few readily available tools to get your cannabis seed scarification done

The Best Way To Germinate Marijuana Seeds

Now that you’re done reading this guide on seed germination — which method will you choose?

The soil, paper towel, and rooting cube methods are all tried-and-true and provide excellent germination rates. Remember, cannabis seeds are an investment, and you must use the best germination method possible to ensure a healthy cannabis crop.

You have one chance to germinate each seed the right way, and by using this guide, you’ll make each seed count.

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Now is the time to think about controlling summer annual weeds prior to seed set in cropping situations where possible. Preventing seed production is important for driving down the weed seed bank and reducing the need for weed control inputs (i.e. herbici Worldofseeds is a international bank and distributor. We offer the best marijuana and cannabis seeds online around the world with a great price and discreet shipment. Semillas de Cannabis: Compra Semillas de Cannabis Online. Oferta especial 3+1, 5+2 Entrega gratuita en 24/48 horas. Con cada compra, un regalo

Weed Seeds This Fall Means More Weeds Next Spring

Control annual weeds now in fallow areas to prevent seed set. Also, now is the time to start considering ways to manage perennials in small grain stubble.

Control weeds before seed set. Photo credit: Penn State Weed Science, D. Lingenfelter

Now is the time to think about controlling summer annual weeds prior to seed set in cropping situations where possible. Preventing seed production is important for driving down the weed seed bank and reducing the need for weed control inputs (i.e. herbicides). It is rather easy to prevent weed seed production following a cereal grain such as wheat, barley, or oats as well as some vegetable crops such as sweet corn or snap beans. Proper timing of the control practice is essential in preventing seed production. In general, below is a summary of estimated seed drop for various weed species:

• Giant foxtail: late August and peak seed rain usually occurs from late September through the month of October
• Yellow foxtail: early August and continues into late October
• Pigweed species: begin to produce mature seed by mid-August
• Lambsquarters and ragweed: generally, do not mature until the month of September
• Palmer amaranth or waterhemp: make sure to monitor them routinely over the next couple months and control any regrowth or new seedlings before they set seed. Palmer amaranth plants notoriously retain their seeds late into the summer and fall and thus seeds don’t necessarily fall to the ground upon maturity but are usually spread via the combine.

See also Joe Pye Weed Seeds

To prevent seed production, fields can be sprayed with an effective herbicide or mowed once or twice. Glyphosate is particularly effective at stopping grass growth and reproduction. The plant growth regulators (2,4-D and dicamba) would probably be a better choice for broadleaf weeds. With giant foxtail, even treating the field by mid-September can greatly reduce seed production. If seed heads are present, check suspect fields to determine how advanced flowering and seed rain are and time control practices accordingly. In alfalfa or pastures, if weeds are taller than the forage, consider running a brush-hog at a high setting to clip off the immature weed seed heads above the forage canopy. Taking the time to prevent seed production this year can make a big difference next year. About 80% of weeds next season come from weed seed this fall. For more information on weed emergence, weed seed set, and seedbank dynamics, refer to “A Practical Guide for Integrated Weed Management in Mid-Atlantic Grain Crops.”

In addition, many perennial broadleaves are evident in these same small grain stubble fields. The challenge with perennial weeds at this time of year is the fact they are still in the vegetative and reproductive phases. Therefore, most of the plant sugars are not being significantly transported to the roots and a herbicide application now will mostly only impact the top-growth. One consideration would be to mow those fields soon to prevent seed production and allow regrowth to occur. Then apply an effective systemic herbicide (ie, glyphosate, 2,4-D, dicamba) in late September or early October so the herbicide will be transported to the roots for more effective control.

Cannabis Seeds – World of Seeds

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We believe this is the best way of supporting responsible home-growing and self-consumption, while also preventing our seeds from being misused for illicit purposes or gains.

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